Latest how to make a blinking led videos at PopScreen

Tim Head Look mum no hands! From blinking LEDs to a bike speedometer with MicroPython PyCon 2017

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"Speaker: Tim HeadnnIn this talk I will show you how to use a micro-controller to build a wifi enabled speedometer for your bike, using Micr...

Cypress PSoC® Creator™ 101 - Lesson 4: Let’s Get an LED to Blink - Part 1

YouTube 7:42

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC+Creator%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True In this lesson, I’ll in...

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC+Creator%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True In this lesson, I’ll introduce you to the pin component and show you how easy it is to use it for firmware-based I/O. First, you can choose to connect the pin to just about any other pin or IP block in the device. Second, you can condition the signal inside of the device. By this, I mean you can route a wire to multiple places in the device and modify it by inserting inverters and flip-flops into the signal path. Let’s start by setting up a pin to drive the LED. I start by creating a new project. Find the pins component in the Component Catalog, and drag it onto the schematic page. We’ll need to set up the pin component by double-clicking to open the Configure dialog. Let’s name this one LED. We will also turn off the hardware connection because, in this case, we’re going to drive the LED directly from the firmware. In the next lesson, we’ll have to turn that back on when we do hardware connections. One of the really useful things about configuring pins with a component is that the setup is independent of the physical pin location. We just gave the pin a name and we can worry about which physical pin to use later on. And if we decide for some reason to move the pin to another location, we can do that without breaking our application firmware. The configuration settings from the dialog you just saw get programmed into the device by PSoC Creator™, and you just control the pin with the simple provided APIs. We choose the physical pin in the Design-Wide Resources file. You can let PSoC Creator choose the pin for you; or, if you have a target board like the PSoC 4 Pioneer Kit, you can specify a specific pin to use. The GUI lets me select the pin through a pull-down menu or by dragging the pin over onto the picture of the device. On the Pioneer Kit, the blue LED is connected to port 0, pin 3, which is often abbreviated as P0[3]. That’s all it takes to set up an output pin. Here you can see the source code that controls the pin. These APIs are documented in the component datasheet.You can get to them from many places including the Configure dialog, the context-sensitive right-hand menu on the component, the Component Catalog, as well as the Document Manager. Next we will write our application firmware using the Read and Write functions for our pin. The name you gave the component will always be the first part of the API. So the Creator generated APIs in our case will start with LED_. We have LED_Read as well as LED_Write that we will use to make the LED blink. To toggle the state of the LED, we read the current state of the pin. Then we invert it using the NOT operator. And then we write the new state back to the pin. We’ll also use the CyDelay function to slow the PSoC so we can see the LED blink. CyDelay just inserts a customized busy-loop of “X” milliseconds. In this case, 500ms. Our LED will blink at 1Hz: 500ms on; 500ms off. When you click Program, PSoC Creator detects the changes we just made in the project and rebuilds before programming into the actual device. Now that it is programmed, the LED will blink on and blink off every second. We can easily control the speed, and create blinking patterns from firmware without having to worry about the register addresses and bit-masks. If we laid out our board wrong, we just need to change the Design-Wide Resources file to reassign the pin and re-build. Next let’s add a little bit of user control of the application by connecting a mechanical switch on our board to an input pin. We’ll need another pin component from the catalog. This time we will choose an input pin. Let’s name it switch one, SW1 for switch. This switch is active low which means that it’s connected to ground on the board and the pin will read a 0 when it is pressed. We need to make sure it reads a 1 when the button is not pressed, so we’ll set the drive mode to be resistive pull-up. That way when we press the switch, the pin will read a 0; and, when not pressed, the pull-up resistor will make sure that the pin reads a 1. See if you can reproduce these designs for yourself. Then try writing code to vary the blinking patterns. This section was intended to give you a simple introduction to the way the PSoC Creator design flow works and give you experience with the Component Catalog, the build and programming process, and the assignment of pins using the Design-Wide Resources. In the next section, we’ll give you more detail about having a more hardware oriented solution to the blinking LED. Less

Cypress PSoC® Creator™ 101 - Lesson 5: Let’s Get an LED to Blink - Part 2

YouTube 6:00

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC+Creator%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True In the last lesson, we se...

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC+Creator%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True In the last lesson, we set up two pins. The first was connected to a switch on the board, and the second was connected to an output that was driving an LED. Controlling an LED from firmware is great, but any micro can do that. Let’s start using more of the PSoC® configurability. We’re going to control an LED from a switch without using any C code at all. First, let’s re-enable the hardware connection in the LED pin and draw a wire between it and the switch pin. The wire is green. This tells us that it is a digital connection between the pins. When we build this design, PSoC Creator™ will set up routing inside of the PSoC so that the two pins are directly connected. One of the cool features in PSoC Creator is the ability to add documentation to your schematic. You can show the entire circuit of your designnot just the stuff that’s inside of the PSoC. I can do this by adding external components to the design that document how the pin is wired on the board. I just enable the external terminal on the pin component. And then I draw in the LED, and the power source or ground, and the current-limiting resistor. Now I’ll never forget that the LED is active low. I do the same thing on the switch, so that I can see that the pin will go low when I press the button. Notice that the off-chip wires and components are blue. So you’ll always be able to see that they’re not part of the PSoC. They are there for your documentation and won’t be built inside of your PSoC. Let’s take this simple hardware circuit to the next level and show more of PSoC’s flexibility. We’ll make the switch act as an LED toggle. For this example, grab the toggle flip-flop from the Component Catalog and insert it between the two pins. Attach logic 1 to the flip-flop input, and the LED will now toggle off and on when you press the button. How cool is that? This is a pretty simple example of how we can modify the signal. When you’re more familiar with the PSoC, you’ll soon be routing signals through multiplexers and different kinds of gates. You’ll be able to create sophisticated state machines with our look-up table component and, in some of our next lessons, you’ll be controlling functions with a pulse-width modulator and with timers. Now it’s time for your challenge. If you did the software project from the previous lesson, and you should have, try working that to replace the firmware with the flip-flop. Once you have that working, try driving a second LED. The green LED is attached to P0[2] on the Pioneer board, but reverse the order of the toggling so the light switches between the blue and the green. For the next example, we will control the LED using one of the PSoC’s built-in PWMs and a clock. For this project, we will also enable the blinking LED using Pioneer’s built-in hardware switch. First place the PWM component. Double-click on the PWM component to start the device configuration dialog: click on the button that enables the HW enable; set the period to 100 and the compare to 50; and name the component PWM. In this example, the 100 will divide the input clock by 100 yielding a 1 Hz output and the 50 in the compare value will set the duty cycle to be 50/50. Next, place a Clock component. Double-click on the clock, and set the input frequency to 100 Hz. Last, wire the schematic together by connecting the switch to the PWM input, the LED to the PWM output, and the clock component to the PWM clock. The last thing that you will need to do is add firmware to start the clock and to start the PWM. You will do that with the built-in component feature Start. Lastly, build and program the PSoC. You will now have a functioning, switch-controllable, blinking LED. Now, there are some things that you can do to make this your own project. And as a challenge, change the design to blink when the button is pressed, instead of when it’s not pressed. Also, try changing the duty cycle of the LED by changing the PWM parameters. This can be accomplished by changing the compare value and the period value of the PWM. In the previous examples, you used the hardware of the PSoC to control the switches and the LEDs. In the coming example, you’ll be using Cypress’s proprietary CapSense to control projects. Less

8 pin Lightning Cable with light - How it works

YouTube 0:27

Are you tired of waiting for your computer to make a noise so that you know if a cable is working? Do you want a quicker notification system...

Internet of Things - Like Blink

YouTube 3:51

Today I will show you how to make the basic example of Internet of Things from my previous video ("Internet of Things -- Getting Started") m...

Today I will show you how to make the basic example of Internet of Things from my previous video ("Internet of Things -- Getting Started") more interesting by putting some Internet into the mix. This time, I will make the LED blink each time someone gets a like on Facebook.nnAll the hardware that you need to perform this lab is the same as in the previous video, so please check that out for the details. The difference this time is that I will add a multichannel service to get the number of likes from a Facebook fan-page, and the Arduino program (sketch) will be calling that service and blink the LED accordingly. So the flow is that someone clicks or taps a like button, and Facebook adds that to the fan page likes count, which makes it available to the Graph API. The Arduino queries the omnichannel service for the number of likes, which in turn query the Graph API for all of the fan page info, extract the likes count, and return it to the Arduino. The Arduino then compares the returned likes count with the previous count retrieved, and if the new count is higher, it flashes the LED for half a second.nnThe code for the omnichannel service (you find it on http://cforsberg.com/?p=159) first saves the Facebook user name parameter. Then it gets the fan-page contents from the Facebook Graph API for the user name specified. The contents is decoded to JSON and if there is a "likes" node, it is retrieved, and returned to the caller. This service can be deployed to a cloud server, with the name likes.php, and I showed how to do that in my previous video named "Omnichannel Services - First Service".nnThe Arduino code (sketch) defines a constant for pin 13 is defined. That pin is set up for output, and then we initialize the bridge, which allows communication between the microcontroller (32U4) and the microprocessor (AR9331, with Linux). After setting up a few variables, the eternal loop starts by getting the content from the omnichannel service (and replace 0.0.0.0 with the IP of your server). The code now gets the likes for the Swedish DJ Avicii, but it can easily be changed to any other account with a fan page, even your own. The response is parsed as an integer with the number of likes, the difference since the last request is calculated, and if the difference is positive, the LED is turned on for half a second. Then we wait for two seconds, save the recently retrieved number of likes, and reset the server contents. This way, each time that Avicii gets a like on Facebook, the LED blinks.nnSo there you have a more interesting example of how to apply the Internet of Things with omnichannel services.nnFollow me on Twitternhttps://twitter.com/chrisforsbergnnVisit my sitenhttp://cforsberg.com Less

How to Test & Diagnose Your TV Remote Control Problem with Your Cell Phone Camera

YouTube 3:00

How to test a TV Remote Control with your cell phone camera for repair. TV Remote control help, when it is not working. Check to be sure y...

How to test a TV Remote Control with your cell phone camera for repair. TV Remote control help, when it is not working. Check to be sure your remote is sending a signal. nGet a New TV Remote Control: http://bit.ly/ShopJimmyRemotesnnNeed free technical support help?nn• Call our award-winning Customer Service Team: (877) 881-6492 n• Email us: sales(at)shopjimmy.comn• Live Chat with us: http://www.shopjimmy.com/techsupportnnSo in this video today we are going to give you a quick tip to see if your remote is functioning.nIf you have any comments or questions, please leave your make and model and serial number below with the symptoms of whats wrong and we will get back to you as soon as we can. So this video is going to be for if your TV is not responding to your remote, but it still works with the keypad. This is a good way to check that your remote is transmitting. All you are going to need for this is a remote and a cell phone. This is going to work with more cell phones, some are not sensitive to infrared, and may not function. If you are not sure grab another one from a friend and just try using that. nOK, so you are going to want to load up your camera app on your phone and once you have done that, you are going to go ahead and you are going to point the remote right at the camera lens. When you do it, you can just point straight at the lens and then you can press any button on the remote and you are going to check the screen. So if the remote is working, you are going to see it blinking on your phone.nWe have dimmed the lights in here, so you can see it, but when the remote is working you are going to see when you push the button, that the LED in the end of the remote lights up. That is a sign that your remote is working and that it is probably an issue with your TV. If you don't see the remote blinking in your phone, it could be one of a few things. It could mean that the remote is defective or it could mean that you have bad batteries. nThe first step is to go ahead and replace the batteries with a fresh set and repeat the test. If you still don't see it, then its time to get a new remote. nSo here are ShopJimmy.com, we sell a lot of model specific remotes and also universal remotes. nYou can go ahead and search by the model number which is usually found on the remote. On this one it is right here, or it can also be found on the back of the remote in the battery compartment on a lot of models. Or you can search by the model number from your TV. nIf we don't have one listed for your TV by the remote number or by the model number, you can go ahead and look at our universal remotes, which work with pretty much any TV out there. If you are looking for a universal remote, you can just go to our website and search for universal remote and that will bring up a full listing of all our remotes available. n nThank you for watching one of our many tutorialsnhere at Shopjimmy.com. If you have any furthernquestions regarding your repair, simply postna question in the comment section below orncall our award winning customer service teamnat the number on your screen. We strive tonlearn and share new TV repair tips everyday.nSubscribe to our YouTube channel and grownwith us, share our videos with your friendsnand help us spread the savings and don't forgetnto hit that like button!nnTV Repair Made Easy™n© 2014 ShopJimmy.com, LLC. Less

How Lucky You Can Be: The Story of Coach Don Meyer By Buster Olney — Download

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Download Here: http://tinyurl.com/qfa73u3nn n nnnnnnIn September 2008, Northern State University men’s basketball coach Don Meyer stood ...

Download Here: http://tinyurl.com/qfa73u3nn n nnnnnnIn September 2008, Northern State University men’s basketball coach Don Meyer stood on the brink of immortality. He was about to surpass the legendary Bobby Knight to become the all-time NCAA wins leader in men’s basketball. Then, on a two-lane road in South Dakota, everything changed in an instant.In How Lucky You Can Be, acclaimed sports journalist Buster Olney tells the remarkable story of the successive tragedies that befell Coach Meyer but could not defeat him. Laid low by a horrific car accident that led to the amputation of his left leg below the knee, Coach Meyer had barely emerged from surgery when his doctors informed him that he also had terminal cancer. In the blink of an eye, this prototypical 24/7 workaholic coach—who arrived at the gym most mornings before 6 a.m.—found himself forced to reexamine his priorities at the age of sixty-three. A model of reserve, Coach Meyer had sacrificed much of his emotional life to his program. His wife, Carmen, felt disconnected because of his habitual reticence, while his three children—all now well into adulthood—had long had to compete with basketball for his attention.With sensitivity and skill, Olney shows how Coach Meyer mined his physical ordeal for the spiritual strength to transform his life. In the months that followed his accident and diagnosis, he reached out to family, friends, and former players in a way he had never been able to do before, making the most of this one last opportunity to tell those close to him how he felt about them—and in turn he received an outpouring of affirmation that confirmed how deeply he had affected others. Sustained throughout an often painful recovery by his love of basketball, he would return to the court once more—with a newfound appreciation for the game’s place in his life. The inspirational story of a life renewed by unimaginable hardship, How Lucky You Can Be proves that it’s never too late to start making changes—and reminds us that fortune can smile upon us even in our most trying hours. From the Hardcover edition. Less

LED Dancing Water Speakers Review ♫ Cool Party Speakers ♫

Dailymotion 3:57

Water Dancing Speakers Review ♫ Awesome gadget for adding a Splash of Dancing Color to your Music! Check out Less Vs More reviewing some ...

Water Dancing Speakers Review ♫ Awesome gadget for adding a Splash of Dancing Color to your Music! Check out Less Vs More reviewing some Quality Water Dancing Speakers and demonstrating how they actually work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlUbf... To start off, I’d like to say that the dancing water speakers is a very cool concept and overall are a great addition to any home/office. I set these water dancing speakers in my kitchen like a music station so we can listen do them any time of the day. The lights in the LED water speakers are constantly on which is cool and while the water starts dancing in the speaker case, it makes for a cool light show on the ceiling. One of the setbacks on the portable led dancing water speakers is that if the song is recorded really quiet, you can actually hear the jets and water splashing around in the speaker over the music. To be honest, I usually have them turned up almost full volume anyway as I jam out in my kitchen or living room, so the water sound does low and is not noticeable at all. To a crystal sound audio guru this might be a problem, but your are not going to buy water speakers for under $50 and expect to have extreme high quality sound coming out of them. So overall my opinion on the Dancing Water Speakers is great! It could be a good gift for someone of any age that wants to see USB speakers with lights and water. What are water speakers? Simple, they are speakers that combines music, water and an LED light show. Jets of water squirt upwards in the clear case to the beat of the music being play with different colored LEDs that blink on and off along with the jets. The result, amazing looking fountains of light that dance to the music. In this video we were reviewing the Gadgetree Dancing Water MP3 Speakers. What did I like about these neat little speakers with dancing water and lights in them? Well they obviously look pretty damn cool when the lights are off and the music is pumping. Since they are USB... Less

LED Light Up Costume DIY! (Burning Man + Halloween Costume)

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RGB CABLE LIGHT UP CLOTHES for Burning Man 2016 + Halloween costume! nMy Blog on how I did this!: http://officialrainbowgirl.com/led-light-u...

RGB CABLE LIGHT UP CLOTHES for Burning Man 2016 + Halloween costume! nMy Blog on how I did this!: http://officialrainbowgirl.com/led-light-up-halloween-costume-diy/nLINKS BELOW on stuff I used to make these cool costumes:nnBuy some combination of these supplies!nLED Lights Battery Powered (Multi color LED's but less of them): http://amzn.to/2bmxOqU andnLED Lights Battery Powered (More single color LEDs): http://amzn.to/2bMQVJ3nLED Lights USB Powered: http://amzn.to/2bqkk7lnLED Shoes (rechargable): http://amzn.to/2bMRDWEnLED Wire Lights (battery powered) (blinking on his hat): http://amzn.to/2bGwJd1nnOther supplies you may need:nSafety pins, hot glue gun (on my hat)nLED connectors (http://amzn.to/2bWAcjG)nUSB slitter (http://amzn.to/2bGG6od)nAA batteries (http://amzn.to/2bTPiXu)nnTo make this costume I bought some supplies listed below, picked out an outfit that needed some led lights all over it, and learned about LED lights!nnLED Lights:nLED lights are amazing! they come with controllers and allow you to change the color, blinking patterns, speed, and have some very cool effects. For the last few years there have been very cool LED lights coming out but most required you to plug them into a wall or buy complicated adapters to power them. This year many lower cost options are coming out which are much easier. You just plug them into a portable USB power source or they come with a battery box. Both of which makes using LED lights easy for everyone to use!nnPower Options:nIf you buy USB LED lights you'll need a power powerbank (http://amzn.to/2bTOIc1) look at capacity and weight and number of usb ports to make your decision. Also you can buy a cheep 1 to usb slitter (http://amzn.to/2bGG6od) to add more cables!nIf you buy battery powered LED lights you'll need lots of AA batteries (http://amzn.to/2bTPiXu)nnThe Hat:nI picked a hat that was hard so it was easy to stick the LED cable to the hat (the led cables come with a sticky back) I then added some super glue to make sure it stayed on there for good. I put the battery box inside the hat so that it's hidden and tapped that on so I could remove it to change the batteries when needed. For the other hat we just used some wire led lights (they blink different colors and are very cool. These are the same lights we used on the GIANT Minion and alien spaceship I made! LED Wire lights (http://amzn.to/2bGwJd1)nnThe Pants:nI used 4 led cables for the pants. I found that it was easier to do this with the pants on (Don't poke yourself!). Using safety pins I very carefully pined the cables to the pants (making sure to have enough slack so I could move around in them. for the end of the cable I put a safety pin through cable to keep it there. However for the rest of the LED cable actually goes through the safety pin (this way you don't damage the cable, and you can slide it around a little when needed. See the video where I zoom in showing me putting safety pins on.nnThe Jacket:nFor the Jacket I followed the seams of the jacket and did this with the jacket on the floor. The hardest part was making sure to leave room for the cable to bend. You don't want to bend the cable to sharply. Also, make sure you leave enough slack for the wires and battery or power boxes to be in your pockets.nnThe Shoes:nI bought some very cool shoes for $20-$30 which was amazing! they have LED lights (rgb cables) in them and have a little button on the side which lets you select which mode you want to use. Also there are lots of different options: check it out: LED Shoes (rechargable): http://amzn.to/2bMRDWE make sure you check the shipping date as there are a few that ship from the US and others which ship from China and take several weeks.nnOther helpful hints and cool things you can do:nRead my full blog to see this section!nnn***************************nAbout My Channel!nI’m a 3D printing pen expert. I love making creative 3D pen creations as well as reviewing the latest 3D printing products + I make videos on 3D pens / printing technology, hair dye, Chalk board cars, Spray Paint Art, How to/DIY, Reviews, and MORE!n***************************nCheck back on Saturday for my next video! Also, if you like my videos please SHARE them! n***************************nFOLLOW ME:nMY WEBSITE: http://officialrainbowgirl.comnINSTAGRAM: http://goo.gl/sIEKRrnFACEBOOK: https://goo.gl/YzF9WAnSECRET Facebook Profile: https://goo.gl/HtUiaRnTWITTER: https://twitter.com/offraingirln***************************nMUSIC I USED IN THIS VIDEO:nAmpyx - LMAO nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocwUom5Gv_YnnWhatfunk - Just For You FREE NO COPYRIGHT MUSICnhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Of4-K4ZxnWY Less

iStorage datAshur Flash Drive -keep your data safe behind AES 256-bit encryption [Review]

YouTube 4:06

Full review at http://www.redferret.net/?p=48418. The iStorage datAshur Secure Flash Drive is a conventional type flash drive with a twist. ...

Internet of Things - Getting Started

YouTube 5:06

Today I will show you how you can get started with the Internet of Things, and I will do it using the open source hardware platform Arduino....

Today I will show you how you can get started with the Internet of Things, and I will do it using the open source hardware platform Arduino. I will use the Arduino Yún board, but the setup I will show works with most of the original Arduino boards as well as compatible versions by other suppliers.nnThe only thing you really need to perform the lab that I will show you in this video is an Arduino board. Even the most basic board, the Arduino Uno will do, as it has an onboard LED, but I will use the Arduino Yún as it has a lot more potential what I will dig into more in upcoming videos. But if you want to get started with some hardware, you also need a breadboard, a LED (I will use a red one), a resistor (I will use one of 220 ohms) and two jumper wires.nnThe first thing you need to do is set up your Arduino board, and the procedure is a bit different for each board, so please check out www.arduino.cc for details on how to set up your board. The first step to set up an Arduino Yún board is to connect a power source to the micro-USB port (e.g. any Android phone charger will do), and then connect your computer to the wireless network created by the board, and it's named something like ArduinoYun-XXXXXXXXXXXX. Then, browse to 192.168.240.1, login with the password "arduino", choose "CONFIGURE", and setup wireless network (which is usually your local router). Finally, when the board restarts, connect the computer to the same wireless network (router).nnThe next thing to do is to set up your development environment, and you start by downloading it from www.arduino.cc/en/main/software, and then follow the instructions (on Mac you just unzip the archive and drag the containing app to "Applications"). For Arduino Yún, you should use version 1.5.6-r2 (or later), and when you start it you choose Tools, Board, and the board that you have. Then you choose Tools, Port, and if you have the Yún, it should show up with its IP address.nnNow it's time to run your first program (or sketch as it's called in the Arduino world), and for that you choose File, Examples, 01Basics , Blink. The code declares a constant (on the first line) for the 13th pin, and on startup (in the setup function) that pin is initialized for output (on line 5), so that we can set its state. On each eternal iteration (in the loop function) we first turn on the LED (on line 10), wait a second (on line 11), then turn off the LED (on line 12), and wait another second (on line 13). This means that the LED will blink each two seconds, and to run the program we first click the Verify button (with a checkbox) followed by the Upload button (with the arrow). The first time you upload to an Arduino Yún, you have to provide the password. After a while a small LED on the Arduino board should start flashing.nnTo make this more of a "things" example, here's how you can also make an external LED blink. First you should disconnect the Arduino board from its power source to make sure that you don't break anything while doing the connections. Then connect a jumper wire from the ground (GND) to the minus column and pin 13 to 1A on the breadboard. Also connect the resistor to minus and 2C, and the LED to 1E (the long part, which is the positive part, or anode) and 2E (the short part, which is the negative part, or cathode). Finally, reconnect the power, wait for a while, and then the LED on the breadboard should start blinking.nnSo there you have a first example of how to get started with the Internet of Things.nnFollow me on Twitternhttps://twitter.com/chrisforsbergnnVisit my sitenhttp://cforsberg.com Less

PSoC Creator 101: CY8CKIT-049 Prototyping Kit Getting Started

YouTube 6:13

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:ManufacturerPartNumberUpshiftedSearch%7c*CY8CKIT%2f-049*%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True ...

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:ManufacturerPartNumberUpshiftedSearch%7c*CY8CKIT%2f-049*%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True Today, I’d like to give you an introduction to the exciting new CY8CKIT-049 prototyping kit. This is a $4 kit that has either a PSoC 4200 or a PSOC 4100 chip as well as an USB serial programmer. This lesson will work with either version. The prototyping board can easily be used directly in your application by soldering standard 100mil center headers onto the devkit. I like to have a female connection on top of the board with long male pins on the bottom of the board. This allows me to either plug the board into a breadboard or connect wires to the top. The 4100 and 4200 boards are identical except for the PSoC chips. Which have more or less resources. - In addition, the kit comes with a programming interface, implemented with the CY7C65211 configurable USB bridge controller chip. This chip lets you download new applications into the PSoC with our Bootloader Host utility. After you have finished your design you can snap off this chip and use it as a USB to Serial bridge. Before we ship the kit to you it is programmed with two applications, a simple blinking LED application in this case called a bootloadable application and a bootloader application that runs automatically when you plug it into your USB port. If the button on the board is not pressed, the bootloader will immediately launch the bootloadable application. To start the bootloader, remove the kit, then hold down the button down, re-insert it and let go of the button. Do you see how the led blinks at a different rate? That’s because the PSOC has entered the bootloader program. The bootloader is now waiting on a serial port connection from the PC. The board enumerates as a COM port in the Windows Device Manager. Be aware that, the first time you do this on a new USB port, Windows has to install a device driver. The online download process can some times take a minute or more, so be patient. Make sure the installation is complete before trying to program the board. Start the bootoader host utility from the PSoC Creator tools menu. You should now see the new connection appear automatically. If it does not, you will need to set it up manually using the Windows Device Manager. See the user guide on the kit web page for details of that straightforward process. To program the PSOC, first select the new port and choose the UART configuration from the pull-down. Then set up the communication to be at 115200 baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit, and no parity. Now you are ready to program the board. If you didn’t do it already, first download the example projects from the kit web page. This is just a zip file with the two projects - the bootloader and the bootloadable application. Start by making a simple change to the application then download it into your board. First, Open the workspace called SCB_bootloader in PSoC Creator. In the project called bootloadable_blinking_led open the schematic. Then open the customizer dialog for the PWM. You are going to change the way the LED blinks. Let’s leave it at the same rate, but reduce the time that the LED is on. Instead of a 50% duty cycle we’re going to have a short flash followed by a longer off-time. Set the compare value to 50 representing a 5% duty cycle. Once that is done, rebuild the project by selecting build from the build menu in PSoC Creator. This will create a file named “bootloadable_blinking_led.cyacd” Now you need to tell the bootloader host tool where the application is on the disk. Press the folder button and find your project folder, then navigate through the architecture folder – Cortex-M0 – the compiler folder, ARM_GCC - and the build configuration folder – Debug – to locate the file with the extension CYACD. The CYACD stands for Cypress application code and data. That’s the equivalent to the hex file in boot loading. Press the download button and your project will now be bootloaded onto your board. See how the new application runs immediately. You can see that the LED is blinking really briefly and is then it is off for a noticeably longer time representing the 5% duty cycle that you set when you changed the compare value in your PWM. Give this a try for yourself by changing the application and bootloading in your update. Change the blinking speed of the LED. Vary the on and off time from firmware. It doesn't really matter what you make the application do – you’re just getting used to the bootloading process and building bootloadable applications in PSoC Creator and then downloading them also known as bootloading them from the host utility. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Ro:0,Nea:True,N:4294938421 Less

Electronic LEGO Super Mario Bros. Mushrooms - Demonstration

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A demo of my set of custom Super Mario Bros. Mushroom models, built entirely from LEGO pieces and with a circuit to play sound and to make L...

Fresh Competition - I Wanna Write (Fresh Composition Intro - Produced by Kenny Kilsworth)

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Check this out - http://www.freestateworkshop.comnSubscribe here: http://www.youtube.com/freestateworknLike Us Here http://www.facebook.com/...

Check this out - http://www.freestateworkshop.comnSubscribe here: http://www.youtube.com/freestateworknLike Us Here http://www.facebook.com/freestateworkshopnFollow Us Here: http://twitter.com/#!/freestateworknnFinally the intro for Fresh Competition's sophmore album "Fresh Composition" is brought to light. Joined with his super producer once again, Fresh and Kenny Kilsworth aka Pickinlox make it one to remember. Fresh Competition's sophmore album includes some crowd favorites like "Live for the Moments" "Down On the Corner" "Lately ft Joey Harkum" and many many more. Stay tuned for the August 2011 release.nSpecial thanks to Sean Norton and Clark Smith of Clark Smith photography for helping with the making of this video.nnI Wanna Write (Fresh Composition Intro 2011)nLyrics By Fresh Competition aka Robert McFreshington Music by Kenny KilsworthnnI wanna write a masterpiece, I wanna right a wrong, this is my rite of passage this is my rebel-i-onI wanna write the passion of a poet in the song with the voice of the prayers and the power of the psalms.nI wanna right when I'm weak just to know that I'm strong through the strength of my words learn how to carry on.nI wanna write to cherish life, you blink and then its gone, I wanna write to spare a life and lead them through the storm.nI wanna write a symphony to chow you all the pain and the beauty and the pleasure that's created in this brain.nI wanna write a mission statement to show you what I'm saying or put it twice on the album so you listen once again, and again,nThen I wanna write to show you where I've been trace the life in these lines through the marks in my pen.nI wanna write my history now in present tense, writing broken smiles, broken home, broken child, broken fence.nI wanna write beginnings just to see where the end and the journey in between just to see where it led, nI wanna write a poem based on actual events of the tattooed scars on the chest and arms and the hand holding the pen.nI wanna write a sentence that will help me reminisce and a melody of memories to help me forget.nI wanna write forever just to proof that I exist full of energy and emphasis on a life well lived.nI wanna write some shit I would of liked as a kid but life is to real, guess I write what it is.nI wanna write a letter to the first girl that I kissed and every other in between that's been added to the list.nI wanna write for me with or without your permission, I want the right to follow dreams refuse to ever give in, I wanna write so loud it makes you stop, makes you listen, I wanna write I have to write I write Fresh Composition... Less

Internet of Things - Like Lamp

YouTube 4:30

Today I will show you how to control anything that is powered with normal electricity. To make it simple, I will build on my previous exampl...

Today I will show you how to control anything that is powered with normal electricity. To make it simple, I will build on my previous example of making a LED blink each time someone gets a like on Facebook, but this time I will make a normal lamp blink instead.nnLet me start off with a word of warning. Normal household electricity is dangerous, and it's not something that anyone should play around with. If you are not experienced dealing with normal electricity and are absolutely sure you know what you are doing, I advice you not to perform this lab, but rather watch how it's done as a theoretical learning experience.nnAs I mentioned in the beginning of the video, this lab build on the ones in my previous video, so for more details on the code, please see that video. If you did the lab from the previous video, and that code is still in your Arduino Yun board then you can just concentrate on the hardware this time.nnHere you can see the needed hardware, and in addition to the Arduino, the important component is a relay module. It's a nice piece of hardware that can open or close an alternating current (AC) that is used in normal electricity, and it is controlled by a low power signal, such as one that an Arduino board can supply. You also need three jumper cables of the kind that have a male pin at one end and a female at the other. You also need a normal extension cable that can be manipulated to allow the relay to control the current, and a lamp that you can connect to the extension cable.nnTo setup the hardware, you should start by disconnecting everything from its power source, and each time you want to change something, make sure to always do this first. Then you connect the Arduino ground (GND) to the ground (minus) on the relay, and it's a good habit to always use a black jumper for ground. Continue by connecting the 5V on the Arduino to the power (plus) on the relay, and a good habit here is to use a red jumper. Now you connect pin 13 on the Arduino to the signal (S) pin on the relay. That's what's needed for controlling the relay. If you like, you can connect the Arduino to the power, and after a while, the LED on the relay should blink with the same frequency as the LED on the Arduino board. Don't forget to remove the power again before you continue.nnNow we are ready for the lamp, and the easiest way to do it, is to remove the outer isolation somewhere in the middle of the extension cable, but make sure that you leave the inner isolation on each of the cables intact. Identify the ground cable (it's usually the one with the two colors green and yellow), and then you can choose to cut any of the other cables. Remove some of the isolation on each cut end, and the end that goes to the power supply should go into the middle port of the relay (usually called COM), and the other end should go into the NO port of the relay. Now it's time to test it, and start by connecting the Arduino to the power, wait for the LEDs (on both boards) to start flashing, and then KEEP VERY CLEAR from the whole setup when you connect to the main power and while it's connected.nnUsing this technique you can control anything that is using normal electricity, and that can take your Internet of Things projects to new levels.nnFollow me on Twitternhttps://twitter.com/chrisforsbergnnVisit my sitenhttp://cforsberg.com Less

PSoC Creator 101: Adding a Battery Level Service and Testing with CySmart

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http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Ro:0,Nea:True,N:4294938421 In this lesson ...

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Ro:0,Nea:True,N:4294938421 In this lesson we will take the Find Me profile you built in the first two lessons and add a Battery Level service. First I need to open the BLE component customizer and edit the profile to include the new battery service. In the Profile tab select the Find Me Target and press the Add Service button. Pick out “Battery” from the list. Now let’s initialize the reported level of the battery level characteristic. Under the Battery service is a characteristic called Battery Level. Clicking on it reveals the details of the characteristic and, as the level is a percentage, it makes sense that we should start with a value of 100 to signify a full battery. When I connect to the device from CySmart on my phone I can see the new service with the battery level at 100%. Normally you would use a resistor divider network to create a sensor node to measure the battery with the Analog to Digital Converter. But as that node doesn’t exist on the pioneer board I am going to create a synthetic measurement and show you how to update the GATT database with new data. Let’s add a Timer that will generate an interrupt once every second. I am using the TCPWM-based Timer that I’ve shown you before. Connect a clock component to the input and change its frequency to the kilohertz range with a value of 12. In the Timer choose a period of 12000 and make sure you check the TC interrupt. This will cause the Timer to generate an interrupt when it reaches zero - once per second. Attach an ISR component and give it a friendly name. In the main.c, I have to start the Timer and install an interrupt handler. Moving back up the file I’ll write the ISR by using the CY_ISR macro. I’ll clear the interrupt and then update the battery level. The level is stored inside the GATT database, which we extended to include the Characteristic of the Battery Level Service. I am going to read the characteristic, modify the level, and write it back into the database. Remember the GATT Server in your implementation will automatically provide the information to the GATT Client on the other end of the connection. First, I create two local variables, one for the level and one with the appropriate GATT data structure. In this case it’s “CY BLE GATT HANDLE VALUE PAIR underscore T” – and I initialize it. Remember all of these data structures can be found in the online API Browser, which we talked about in the earlier lesson. Then I call the “CY BLE GATT S Read Attribute Value” API to extract the information. Yes, I know that is a handful; I just had to say it. But it is important to understand the GATT S part of the API tells you it is part of the GATT server. Next I modify the battery level by decrementing by 1%, then when it reaches 0% I put it back to 100%. This will give us a characteristic that will change often enough to be interesting. In the real world, you would replace this synthetic measurement with a real battery measurement. Finally I just have to update the database, so I use the complement to the “Read Attribute” API. To do that; you use a “CY BLE GATT S WRITE” instead of READ. Then I’ll build and program the kit just as I have been doing in all the other examples. As usual I will test the new updates using CySmart. You can see that every time I read the battery level, it has changed by 1%. With this tool you can browse into the GATT database. To do this, first start CySmart. Then, you select the Cypress BLE Dongle and press “connect”. Then you press, “start scan” to see what devices are out there in advertising. When you see a device you are interested in, select it and then press connect. Then you press, “Discover all attributes”. CySmart will then interrogate the GATT server that you just connected to. It will look through the database and it will create a copy inside of CySmart of exactly what you configured in your peripheral. Now you click on the Alert Level Characteristic. Then you can type in a new value, either 0, or a 1, or a 2 representing the three alert levels. Once you’ve selected the number you want, click the write with no response. Notice that if you write a 1 the LED will start blinking. Each of the Profiles, Services and Characteristics that you defined in the component customizer are available in CySmart. If you have configured them to be writable then you can write them. If you configured them to be readable then you can read them. Now we have extended our application by including a Battery Level service. We have now seen applications where the phone sends data to the peripheral with a “Write” and where it reads data from the peripheral with a “Read”. See if you can replicate this in your own design. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/manufacturers/cypress/Pages/index.aspx Less

Cypress Academy, PSoC 101: Lesson 1: Software Output Pins

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http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC+101%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True My name is Alan Hawse and thi...

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC+101%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True My name is Alan Hawse and this is PSoC 101. Let’s get working on the kit. The first thing we need to do is create a new project in PSoC Creator. In the dialog I can give my project a name and choose the target device. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:ManufacturerPartNumberUpshiftedSearch%7c*CY8CKIT%2f-042*%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True Because I am using the 042 kit I need to select the PSoC 4100 / PSoC 4200 design and then choose a template for the project. In this drop-down I can either choose an empty schematic or one that is pre-populated with all the usual MCU functions, like UARTs and an ADC. Because we’re learning from scratch we will use the empty template for now. After clicking OK you will be magically transported to the blank schematic page. If you see blocks with titles like UART and I2C then you forgot to choose the empty template, go back and try again. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/development-tools/rf-wireless/Pages/1050692-CY8CKIT-042-BLE.aspx?IM=0 If you are using PSoC Creator 3.3 the new project dialog is a little different. This project is going to be an led blinky, where we flash LEDs from firmware- the hello world of embedded programming. On the right-hand side of the screen is our Component Catalog with more than 100 preverified special functions. In the search box at the top enter the string p-i-n and you will be presented with the matching components. We need an output pin and you simply drag and drop it into your design. To set up the pin you just double-click to open its customizer dialog. Each component has a customizer that allows you to configure its functionality. In the dialog I will give the pin a name I can remember – Pin underscore green – and I’ll turn off the HW terminal because we’re going to drive this pin from firmware. I’ll show you how to control pins from the PSoC hardware in a future lesson. You can see the complete index of lessons on www.cypress.com/psoc101. We are going to drive an LED from this pin and, because the LEDs on the Pioneer kits are active-low, meaning they sink current to light the LED. I’ll set the initial state to high so that the LED is off. Press OK to commit the changes and close the dialog. The LED on these kits are 3-color RGBs and so I’ll make 2 copies of this component and rename them to blue and red respectively. Now, I need to choose the physical address of the pins. That happens in the resources file double click to open it. Here you see the pins that we added to the schematic. I can drag each entry onto the picture or choose the pin from a drop-down menu. My hardware is now configured. I can build this design and it will generate helpful C language functions to control the pins. These functions are placed in the Generated_Source folder. You can see them for each of the pins I placed. In the main.c file I can add a little code for the application. All the set up is handled by the tool so I can go straight to using the generated functions to toggle the red pin. There is a write function and a read function. For this project if I read the pin state and write its inverse I will toggle the output. There is a handy delay-loop function called CyDelay which allows me to do nothing for a number of milliseconds. I’ll delay for 500 milliseconds, or half a second. I need to build again and then program my board. I have already plugged the Pioneer kit into my USB port and so I’ll just press the program button. The tool knows I made edits in main.c and so it automatically saves the file and re-build the firmware before it programs the board. Now you can see the LED blinking on and off once per second. See if you can reproduce this project for yourself. Then try to modify it a little. You can change the color of the LED you blink and write a little C code so that you vary the duty cycle, making the LED stay on for longer than it is off. As always you are welcome to email me at alan_hawse@cypress.com with your comments, suggestions, criticisms and questions. Less

Cypress Academy: PSoC 101- Lesson 8: Pulse-Width Modulator (PWM)

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http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC+101%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True 1. Make a copy of the Timer p...

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:PartNumberSearch%7cPSoC+101%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True 1. Make a copy of the Timer project 2. Delete the Counter and flip-flop 3. Add a PWM, called PWM and set the period to maximum and the compare to 50% 4. Wire the output to Pin_RED making sure the terminal is exposed 5. Although not used leave Pin_SW2 – we are going to use it later 6. In C, start the PWM 7. Change the compare value every second 8. Show the result – LED is bright/dim 9. Action: Smoothly change the LED color from red to yellow to green. The PWM has a line and a line_n output so connect another LED and, in C, use the WriteCompare function to vary the brightness such that the LED goes from red to green smoothly in five seconds (use CyDelay to change the compare by 1% every 50ms) http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Search.aspx?dsNav=Ntk:ManufacturerPartNumberUpshiftedSearch%7c*CY8CKIT%2f-042*%7c1%7c,Ny:True,Nea:True My name is Alan Hawse and this is PSoC 101. In this lesson I am going to show you the pulse width modulator, or PWM functionality of the TCPWM. This component generates repeating pulses on its output and lets you control both the period and the duty cycle. The duty cycle is the percentage of time that the output is high. A large duty cycle is a mostly-high signal and a small duty-cycle is mostly low signal. The PWM is really a special case of a Counter. It detects rising edges on the clock input and increments a counter. You can set count values for the period and the compare. The period defines when the counter rolls back to zero and, as a result, sets the output frequency of the PWM. The compare value sets the spot where the output switches from low to high which is how you control the duty-cycle. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/development-tools/rf-wireless/Pages/1050692-CY8CKIT-042-BLE.aspx?IM=0 In this project we are going to use a PWM to control the intensity of the red LED. You can do this by blinking the LED with different duty cycles. When you blink very fast your eye does not see the flashing but can detect the reduced amount of light being emitted. Varying the PWM duty-cycle makes the LED appear brighter or dimmer. Make a copy of the Counter project and delete the Counter. Leave the input pin in the design because we’ll be using it again in the next lesson. Find, and drop in the PWM, rename it and set the period to 10,000. Set the compare value to any number below that so you do not get an error. The actual value does not matter because you are going to set it in the firmware. Generate the application so that the editor knows about the API functions. The C code is pretty simple. Just start the PWM and then change the compare value every second. Alternate the value between a very large and very small number so you can really see the difference in brightness when you program the board. Go ahead and build this project for yourself. To test that you understand it fully, use the PWM to drive two LED pins. The line output has a complement, line underscore n, which is invers. If you connect that up to the green LED then it will be dim when the red one is bright, and vice versa. Then use firmware to gradually change the compare value throughout the whole period of the PWM. Use the CyDelay function with a value of 50 milliseconds and change the compare value by 1% each time so that it takes about 5 seconds to change from fully red to fully green. As always you are welcome to email me at alan_hawse@cypress.com. Less

About Tinusaur

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Visit our online store at http://tinusaur.comnnNOTE: This is only for those parents who want their kids to learn by making and one day to be...

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